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Used riding lawn mower inspection – checking tires, engine, and seat condition before buying
Always check tire wear, engine condition, and comfort level when buying a used riding lawn mower.

 

I still remember buying my first used riding lawn mower. It sat behind a neighbor’s shed, covered in dust. I had no clue what to look for when buying a used riding lawn mower. I just hoped it would start—and last.

Since then, I’ve learned a lot. Some mowers were a steal. Others? Not so much. I’ve picked up tips and tricks that help me spot the good ones fast.

In this guide, I’ll show you what to check, what to avoid, and how to know if a mower is worth your money. Let’s make sure you get a deal you’ll be proud of—not a problem you’ll regret.

Is It Worth Buying a Used Riding Lawn Mower?

Absolutely—and sometimes, it’s the smartest move you can make. When I bought my first used riding mower, I paid a third of what a new one would’ve cost. It wasn’t perfect, but it handled the job like a champ for three more seasons. That’s a win in my book.

Short answer: Yes, it can be worth it—if you know what to look for.

Let’s start with the pros. You’ll save a lot of money upfront. You also get access to top brands like John Deere or Cub Cadet that might be out of reach brand-new. And if you’re handy, you can often fix minor issues yourself. On the flip side, the risks are real. Hidden engine problems, poor maintenance history, or just plain wear and tear can turn a deal into a dud.

So, when does buying used make the most sense? I’d say:

Think of it like buying a used car. A well-maintained mower can still have years of life left. The trick is spotting one that’s been cared for—not abused.

Now, let’s talk value. A $3,000 mower that drops to $1,000 after three years isn’t necessarily junk. That drop might just reflect depreciation, not condition. If it’s been kept clean, serviced regularly, and used on a normal yard, that’s real value for your money.

Quick answer: The key is price vs condition—not just price. A cheap mower with a blown engine isn’t a deal. A well-kept one with a solid history? That’s a score.

Bottom line? Used mowers can be a smart, budget-friendly choice—as long as you know the red flags and ask the right questions (which we’ll cover next). Trust your gut, check the facts, and don’t be afraid to walk away if something feels off.

How to Tell If a Used Mower Is in Good Condition

Start with the Basics

Always begin with the story behind the mower. Ask how old it is. Who owned it? Was it used every weekend or just twice a year? These little things matter.

Short answer: Check the age, owner history, and how often it was used—this gives you a clear picture fast.

Ask for receipts or maintenance logs. Even a handwritten note shows care. If someone kept records, chances are they kept the mower in shape too.

Pro tip: A mower with service records is usually a safe bet.

Visual Inspection Checklist

Before you even start the engine, give it a good look. Check for rust on the deck and frame. A little surface rust? Not a deal-breaker. Deep rust or cracks? Walk away.

Quick answer: Look for rust, cracks, worn belts, and bent blades. They’re signs of wear you don’t want to ignore.

Worn belts can slip or snap under load. Bent blades may mean the mower hit something hard—and that could’ve messed up more than just the blade.

Tip: Flip the mower deck and check underneath. That’s where most of the hidden issues hide.

Engine Condition

Start the mower and listen. A smooth start and steady hum? Great. But if it clanks, rattles, or smokes, slow down.

If you see smoke, ask: Is it white, blue, or black?

Snippet-ready: Used lawn mower smoke from engine—is it serious? Yes, especially blue or black smoke. It usually signals engine trouble.

Also check for oil leaks around the engine. Small seepage might be old gaskets. But puddles? That’s a red flag.

Battery, Tires, and Seat

These might seem minor, but they say a lot. A torn seat, flat tires, or a dead battery tells you it wasn’t well-loved.

Quick tip: Check small parts—they often reflect how well the whole mower was cared for.

Press on the tires. Are they dry and cracked? That could mean it sat too long. Bounce the seat—if it feels brittle or broken, that’s a sign of neglect.

Test Drive Tips

If you can, take it for a spin. I always do. Drive it on grass. Try turning tight, speeding up, and backing up. If it jerks or shakes, something’s off.

Fast check: A good mower should handle smooth, cut clean, and not rattle your bones.

Listen for strange noises. Feel the vibrations. A rough ride might mean worn bushings or bad tires. And always check the cutting height adjustment—it should move freely, not jam or stick.

Signs of a Bad Riding Lawn Mower Engine

Hard Starts or Won’t Stay Running

If a mower is tough to start—or worse, starts but won’t stay running—you’re already looking at trouble.

Quick answer: A riding mower that starts but won’t run is a red flag. It could mean fuel, carburetor, or engine compression issues.

I learned this the hard way. I once bought a used mower that started great during the test… for about 20 seconds. Then it sputtered out and refused to stay running. Turned out the carburetor was gummed up, and the fuel line was cracked. It cost me more in repairs than I saved on the deal.

Ask yourself: Is it hesitating? Does it choke out when you throttle up? Does it stall after warming up? These are signs of poor fuel flow or internal engine wear.

Used mower starts but won’t run—should I buy? Only if you’re prepared for repairs or know what you’re getting into. Otherwise, walk away.

Engine Smoking

Some smoke is normal—especially on a cold start. But constant smoke? That’s a big deal.

Quick answer: Blue smoke = burning oil. White = possible head gasket leak. Black = too much fuel.

Here’s a simple breakdown:

I once saw a deal too good to be true: a $2,500 mower listed for $800. The catch? Constant blue smoke. The seller said, “It just needs an oil change.” Yeah… no. That engine was on its last leg.

Used lawn mower smoke from engine—is it serious? Yes—especially if it’s constant and thick. Know what color you’re seeing and what it means.

Excessive Noise or Knocking

All engines make noise. But if it sounds like a coffee can full of bolts? That’s your cue to back off.

Quick answer: Knocking, rattling, or loud clanks often mean internal engine damage. Avoid it unless you’re ready to rebuild.

A knocking noise could be bad rod bearings, a loose flywheel, or worn crankshaft parts. That’s not a cheap fix. Even worse—those sounds might only get louder under load.

Here’s a trick I use: Let the engine idle, then slowly rev it up. If the noise increases or changes pitch with RPM, it’s coming from inside the engine.

And if the mower sounds like it’s about to shake apart? Trust your ears. Loud equals broken.

Oil Condition and Leaks

Always, always check the oil. It’s the engine’s lifeblood—and it tells you a lot.

Quick answer: Milky, gritty, low, or leaking oil = big trouble. Walk away or budget for repairs.

Pull the dipstick. If the oil looks like chocolate milk? That means water got in—possibly from a blown head gasket or poor storage. If it smells burnt, the engine was likely run too hot or too long without service. And if there’s sludge or metal flakes? Game over.

Now check under the mower. A drip or two? Not the end of the world. A puddle? Big problem. Look around the valve cover, oil pan, and crank seals. Those are common leak spots.

I once found a “great deal” on a zero-turn with only 200 hours. But the oil was gritty and pitch black. No leaks, but the inside of the filler cap was caked with gunk. That mower hadn’t seen fresh oil in years.

Bottom line: Bad oil tells a bad story. And stories matter when you’re buying used.

Should I Buy a Used John Deere Riding Mower?

Quick answer: Yes. A used John Deere mower is a smart choice—if it’s in good shape.

Let me share a story. A friend of mine bought a used John Deere D130 from a local seller. It had about 300 hours on it. We checked it out, started it, and took it for a test cut. It ran smooth. Three years later, it still runs great. No big repairs. Just oil changes and a belt. That’s why I trust this brand.

Here’s the deal: John Deere mowers are strong, easy to fix, and last a long time.

They’re built with care. The frame is tough. The deck is solid. The engine? Reliable—if it’s been taken care of. And when parts wear out, you can find new ones fast. Stores, online shops, and even local dealers often stock them. That means less downtime and fewer headaches.

Good to know: John Deere mowers have great parts support and are easy to repair.

One thing I really like is how well they hold up. If the deck isn’t rusty, and it runs well, you’re likely getting a solid machine. Even older models can still mow like champs—if they’ve been serviced.

Tip: Check the mower’s deck, oil, and how it starts. That tells you a lot.

And here’s a bonus—resale value. A clean, working John Deere sells faster and for more money than many other brands. That’s great if you ever want to upgrade.

Why it matters: A used John Deere holds its value better than most mowers.

Still, not every model is perfect. Some cheaper models may have weak transmissions. Others were pushed too hard. So don’t skip your checks. Just because it’s green and yellow doesn’t mean it’s gold.

Final tip: If it runs well, has no major damage, and comes with service records—it’s likely a great buy.

How Many Hours Should a Riding Mower Last?

Short answer: A good riding mower can last anywhere from 500 to 1,000 hours—sometimes even longer—if it’s been properly maintained.

When I was shopping for my second used mower, I found one with just 180 hours on it. Looked like a deal. Low hours? Check. Clean deck? Check. But when I dug deeper, I found cracked tires, dry belts, and oil that looked like tar. It had clearly been sitting, not serviced. I walked away.

Here’s the thing: low hours don’t always mean “good.” A mower that’s been used steadily and serviced regularly might be in way better shape than one that’s been idle for years.

Rule of thumb:

If you’re wondering: Used riding lawn mower with low hours – is it reliable?
 The answer is: Maybe—but only if it’s been stored right and maintained well.

Hours don’t tell the whole story. You need to know how those hours were spent. Was it used gently on a flat half-acre? Or pushed hard on hills and bumpy ground?

Quick tip: Ask where it was stored. A low-hour mower kept outside under a tarp will wear out faster than a higher-hour one stored in a dry garage.

Also, check the hour meter itself. Some folks disconnect or replace them. If the mower looks rough but shows “150 hours,” something’s not adding up.

Bottom line:
 Don’t fall in love with the hour count alone. It’s just a number. What matters is how the mower was used, cared for, and stored. Think of it like buying a used car—miles matter, sure, but maintenance? That’s what really counts.

Best Time of Year to Buy a Used Lawn Mower

Short answer: The best time to buy a used mower is when most people aren’t thinking about mowing—like late fall or early spring.

I’ve found my best deals in the fall. Why? Folks are done mowing. They’re clearing out sheds and garages. They don’t want to store the mower all winter. That’s when prices drop. Less demand = better deals.

Pro tip: Right after mowing season ends, sellers get eager. They want that mower gone. That’s when you strike.

Early spring is good too. People start shopping for new gear, and that means they sell their old stuff cheap. Plus, you can test the mower right away before buying. No waiting for warm weather.

Quick answer: Late fall and early spring are the top times to buy.

Estate sales? Goldmine. That’s where I found a solid John Deere for half the price. The guy just wanted to sell everything fast. I showed up with cash and rolled it onto my trailer that day.

Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist? Hit or miss—but worth checking. Look for local listings, not far-off towns. And don’t sleep on small repair shops or dealers. Sometimes they get trade-ins and need to move them fast.

Personal tip: I avoid peak summer. That’s when prices go up. Everyone wants a mower, so sellers hold firm.

Now, let’s talk deal-making. Always ask: Is that your best price? Most folks expect to haggle a bit. Be polite, but firm. If you spot rust, old tires, or a cracked seat, point it out. Use it to lower the price.

Cash helps. When sellers see green bills, they’re more likely to say yes. I’ve shaved $100 off a mower just by pulling cash from my wallet.

Short answer: To get the best price, shop in the off-season, offer cash, and don’t be afraid to ask.

Questions to Ask the Seller (Checklist)

When you’re standing in someone’s driveway eyeing a used riding mower, don’t just kick the tires and hope for the best. Ask questions. The right ones. These can save you from buying a lemon—or help you spot a hidden gem.

Why are you selling it?

This is always my first question. You’d be surprised what folks will tell you if you just ask. Maybe they upgraded to a zero-turn. Maybe they’re moving. Or maybe… it’s been nothing but trouble.

Quick answer: Ask why they’re selling—you’ll get insight into the mower’s past (and if they’re trying to offload a problem).

If the answer sounds shaky or vague, trust your gut. One guy once told me, “It just sits too much, but it runs great!” Then it wouldn’t start. Yeah—pass.

Has it had any major repairs?

Every machine needs a little TLC over time. But if the engine, transmission, or deck has been replaced, you want to know. It could be a sign of hard use—or good maintenance. Context matters.

Quick answer: Ask about major repairs—this tells you what kind of life the mower has lived.

Bonus tip: If they say “No major repairs” but you see a fresh gasket or mismatched bolts? That’s a flag. Either it was repaired—or patched just enough to sell.

What kind of lawn was it used on?

This one’s a sleeper. A mower used on a flat, half-acre suburban lawn will wear differently than one that’s been wrestling hills and thick grass on a rural plot.

Quick answer: Ask what kind of terrain and lawn size it worked on. It affects wear and tear more than hours sometimes.

I once passed on a 200-hour John Deere because it had been mowing steep hills. The engine ran hot, the tires were bald, and the deck had taken a beating.

Who performed the maintenance?

Was it DIY? Done at a shop? Uncle Joe with a wrench and YouTube? This gives you a feel for how well it was really cared for.

Quick answer: Ask who did the maintenance—reliable upkeep means a reliable mower.

Bonus if they have records, receipts, or even just a log in a notebook. If they shrug and say, “I change the oil… sometimes,” that tells you what you need to know.

Do you still have the owner’s manual?

This might sound minor, but it shows the seller cared. Folks who keep manuals usually keep up with maintenance, too. Plus, it’s helpful for you later.

Quick answer: Ask if they still have the manual—it’s a small but powerful sign of how they treat their equipment.

I once bought a mower from a guy who had every receipt, a clean manual, and even the original purchase slip. That thing ran like a dream for years.

Final tip: Write these questions down or save them in your phone before you go. When you show up asking smart stuff, sellers take you more seriously. And that can help you spot deals—and avoid duds.

FAQs

Q: What should I check before buying a used riding mower? 

A: Start with the basics: age, maintenance history, and ownership. Look for rust, cracks, worn belts, or engine smoke. Start it, test drive it, and trust your gut. Ask for service records.

Q: How many hours is too many on a riding mower? 

A: Over 1,000 hours is high, but not always bad if well-maintained. Under 300 is considered low. Focus on condition, not just hours. Maintenance matters more than mileage.

Q: Should I avoid a mower that smokes? 

A: Constant smoke? Yes. Blue = burning oil, white = possible coolant leak, black = running too rich. Occasional puff at startup may be okay, but steady smoke means engine issues.

Q: When is the cheapest time to buy a used mower? 

A: Late fall and early spring are best. Fewer buyers, motivated sellers. Estate sales, Facebook Marketplace, and Craigslist often have deals. Be ready to haggle.

Q: Are John Deere riding mowers worth it used? 

A: Yes—if it runs well and has no major issues. They’re reliable, easy to repair, and hold value. Just do your usual checks. A clean, serviced John Deere is usually a solid investment.

Q: What does it mean if a used mower starts but doesn’t keep running?

A: Could be carburetor, fuel lines, dirty filter, or engine wear. It’s a risk unless you’re ready for repairs. Only buy if you know what you’re doing or the price is too good to pass up.

Final Thoughts – Is a Used Mower Right for You? 

Buying a used riding lawn mower can save you a ton of money—but only if you know what to look for. Start with the story behind the mower. Check its age, hours, and maintenance history. Look it over from top to bottom. Listen to the engine. Take it for a spin.

And remember: low hours don’t always mean good condition. A well-loved mower will outlast a neglected one every time.

Ask the right questions. Walk away if something feels off. And don’t rush—there’s always another mower.

One last tip: I once almost bought a mower with 250 hours on it. It looked great. But I noticed the oil was milky. Walked away. A week later, I found another for the same price, better condition, and no hidden issues. That one’s still mowing today.

Moral of the story? 

Do your homework, trust your instincts, and you’ll end up with a mower that works hard—without breaking the bank.

Read More: Essential Maintenance for Push Reel Lawn Mowers: Step-by-Step Instructions